Introduction
During the months of September and October in 2023 I travelled to Nepal, with the main goal to hike the Three Passes Trek, so called because of three passes higher than 5.000 metres which have to be crossed during the trek. Nowadays, most hikers wishing to trek in the Everest region fly from the capital of Kathmandu to Lukla airport, from where they walk to Namche Bazaar, which is the current starting point for treks and expeditions into the Everest region. However, I do not take domestic flights out of principle, so I went by jeep from Kathmandu to Dhap and walked from there through the hills to Namche Bazaar.
This provided the opportunity to do some more treks, namely climbing Pikey Peak (4.065m), and walking from Junbesi to Namche Bazaar and back from Namche Bazaar to Jiri, the original starting point for expeditions into the region. During the Three Passes Trek, I made several excursions, such as to Nangkartshang Peak (5.075m), Everest Base Camp (5.364m), Kala Patthar (5.643m), the upper Gokyo lakes and Gokyo Ri (5.357m).
Valley views
The views in the valleys are very distinct than the views higher up in the mountains.
Fog
During the trek towards Pikey Peak it was very cloudy, rainy and visibility was often very limited, which created a very moody and silent atmosphere.
People
Hiking through the valleys provided the opportunity to connect with the local people, often staying in simple hotels where everyone gathered around the fire in the kitchen.
Human presence
Humans let their presence feel in myriad ways. I like to search for these situations, where you don't see the people themselves, only their objects, which can sometimes give a glimpse into their lives.
Mountain views
The mountains in Nepal are magnificent, rising higher and higher to, of course, the highest peak on earth, Mount Everest. Even when you're walking at 4.000 metres or more, when you look up, you might be looking at a peak which is thousands of meters higher.
Gorakshep
Gorakshep, at an altitude of 5.190m, is the last point before Everest Base Camp and the starting point for climbing Kala Patthar, the black mountain.
Thame
The last village on the Three Passes Trek before Namche Bazaar, or the first, depending on which way you are walking, Thame is located in a beautiful little valley, which became increasingly misty as the day progressed.
A stand-alone rock at Everest Base Camp
A chronological description of my trip to Nepal, with more text and photos, is available on my hiking and travel blog.